Riding the Kandy to Ella Train: What to expect

Have you heard all about the most famous and scenic train rides in Sri Lanka? The Kandy to Ella train, weaves through lush green tea plantations, smiling travellers hanging out the doors and the misty mountain views stretching for miles.

We have visited Sri Lanka on and off over the last 15 years, but one of our most adventurous memories, was travelling by train. It was a chance to combine local culture, jaw-dropping landscapes and a more chilled approach to travelling.

But it does have some challenges, mainly how to book the train tickets in advance, to get the best available seats.

To overcome these challenges, we’ll walk you through, how to plan the train ride, what to expect, how to book your seats, and whether it is truly worth spending 6+ hours onboard.

We’ll share our experiences and give you practical tips to make your journey smoother, easier and way less stressful.

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Why take the Kandy to Ella train?

There’s no denying it, the Kandy to Ella train ride has become one of the most famous and scenic routes in Sri Lanka.

Most travellers will include this route in their itinerary. But what makes it famous is leaning out of the train door, with the wind in your hair, rolling tea plantations in the background.

It’s been called one of the most scenic train rides in the world for good reason and we can attest that it is probably one of the best routes we have taken.

But you might still question, is it a little overhyped? Is it still worth doing? In our opinion, it’s definitely worth doing, and while some travellers you speak to, might think it is a little overhyped, we would disagree.

But we do want to be honest here. The train itself is not a luxury train by any means, although you can travel in a little comfort in first and second class, and it is definitely not the quickest or seamless journey.

It can at times, especially in third class, be overcrowded, a bit chaotic and runs on its own unpredictable timetable.

But that is all part of the experience and the unique charm.

If you’re tight on time, you may want to consider other alternative transport options, but if you are anything like us, and want the experience, then book your epic train ride quickly before tickets sell out, and they do sell fast.

So, is it really worth it?

100% yes!

What to expect on the Kandy to Ella train

The Kandy to Ella train is part of a longer railway line that runs all the way from Colombo to Badulla, stopping at Kandy, Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya), Ella and finally Badulla.

Most tourists hop on at Kandy and either stop off in Nanu Oya or continue their journey to Ella. Which is what this guide is going to focus on.

Now, we took a slightly different route on our trip. We started our journey by train from Colombo to Kandy, spent a few days exploring Kandy, then travelled by vehicle to Nuwara Eliya. From there, we boarded a train from Nanu Oya back to Colombo.

Even if you’re not doing the route in the typical direction, or taking a similar detour like we did, this guide will still help you plan and understand what to expect from the iconic train ride.

The Kandy to Ella route

The Kandy to Ella train, takes you from Kandy, through Hatton, Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya), Haputale, to Ella.

The journey time is around 6-10 hours, and is usually slow, due to delays, multiple stops and the train slowly moving along the tracks.

Although it’s slow, you’ll wind through tea plantations and epic views.

Class options

There are three classes on the Kandy to Ella train. First, second and third class, each offering a different experience.

Third class

This is the cheapest option, but also the least comfortable. Seating is limited and it’s common to be standing for most, if not the whole journey.

There is no air conditioning or fans, and it can get VERY crowded, especially during peak times.

That said, third class is probably the most authentic and immersive way to experience the ride.

The doors and windows are wide open, letting in plenty of air and unbeatable views, if you can stand or sit near a window or door.

If you don’t mind sacrificing a bit of comfort for the experience, then third class is a charm.

Second class

This is a solid middle- ground option. Second class offers reserved or unreserved seating, with open windows and doors and ceiling fans to help keep things a little cooler.

You can either stand at the doorway and take in the views, which is something most travellers on this route aim to do.

Or you can stay seated and admire the views from the large windows.

It can get busy, especially during peak season, but it is a popular choice for those who want a balance of comfort and authenticity.

First class

The most expensive option, but also the most comfortable.

First class carriages are air conditioned, with assigned seating and generally fewer passengers.

However, the windows don’t open, which can slightly limit your view if you’re hoping for those iconic photos or a breeze in your face.

Some first-class trains do have a limited number of open doors, so you still get the opportunity to stand and enjoy the scenery if you choose.

This is how we travelled, and we really appreciated the comfort, especially with journey times more than 6 hours.

The facilities onboard

Now, there are no official food carriages on the train, but there might be a few venders that hop on at various stops, selling snacks and drinks.

We’d therefore recommend that you bring your own food, snacks and plenty of water, just in case nothing is available, or you have dietary needs.

What about toilets?

This is a common question. In first class the toilets are clean and in a decent condition for train toilets.

There are two types, a squatting toilet and a western style sit down toilet.

Other classes will have similar facilities, but cleanliness may vary, especially in third class due to the high volume of travellers.

Toilet paper is provided in most places, but we’d recommend bringing your own roll, just to be on the safe side.

Crowds and comfort

How crowded the train gets really depends on the class you choose to travel in and the time of day or season.

In third class, expect crowds. It’s full of locals and tourists alike, all squeezing into the carriages, and standing for hours isn’t uncommon.

If you’re not a fan of crowds or you’re rather sit for most of the ride, then first or second class will be more comfortable.

Because we travelled in first class from Nanu Oya to Colombo, our experience was very relaxed.

We had comfortable seats, air conditioning, and flexibility to get up and stand in the open doorway whenever we wanted to see the classic view.

If your budget allows, we’d recommend first class for the comfort, but if not, then second or even third class can still offer a memorable and adventurous experience.

Just be prepared for a bit of chaos along the way.

Planning the trip – when, where and how to book

If you are planning to squeeze the Kandy to Ella train ride into your packed Sri Lanka itinerary, then a bit of planning will go a long way.

With delays, tickets confusion, and unpredictable weather to consider, this section will help you get organised and make the most of your short time.

Best time to travel

One of the things that can really derail your train travel is bad weather. It can really affect the train times, how slow you travel on the tracks, to train cancellations.

We had booked onto a train from Colombo to Jaffna on one of our trips to Sri Lanka, but due to the bad weather, it caused landslides, which covered the tracks and prevented us from travelling to Jaffna.

Sri Lanka is affected by two monsoon seasons a year, each affecting the different regions at different times.

The height of the tourist season is between December to March, the weather during this period offers clear skies, lush green views and cooler temperatures.

This would be the optimal time to visit, albeit it being crowded.

The shoulder months of April to May, still offer decent weather, but starts to get hotter and slightly more humid. But during this time, there are fewer crowds.

The off season of June to September is the southwest monsoon. You’ll expect rain, mist and poor visibility in the hills, not ideal for scenic views.

The inter-monsoon season will see unpredictable weather that changes quickly. You may experience some beautiful days, but also sudden downpours.

We’d recommend aiming for January to March or April if you want to catch the best scenery and clearest skies. Avoid June to September unless you are ok with rain.

Where to start the route

You could do what we did and travel from Nanu Oya to Colombo, you could break it up, with a train from Kandy to Nanu Oya, spend a few days in Nuwara Eliya, before taking the train from Nanu Oya to Ella. Or just go direct from Kandy to Ella.

Either route, will offer epic views of misty mountain tops, tea plantations and green scenery.

Which is why many tourists specifically include this into their Sri Lankan itinerary.

How to book tickets

It can be a little confusing to purchase train tickets in Sri Lanka.

You have the choice of purchasing them online or at the station.

And first-class and second class reserved often sell out within a few days of ticket release, especially during peak season.

If comfort really matters, then book in advance.

Tickets are released one month from date of travel, so if you do choose to book online, you can do that via 12Go. They are user friendly, accepts international card payments, but there is a small service fee.

Or you could use a recommended tour agent, who can book the tickets in advance for you, or pop to the train station to book the tickets.

You could risk booking the tickets in person on arrival yourself to Sri Lanka.

You can buy unreserved seats and reserved first and second-class tickets, but they are only available on a first come first serve basis.

This is a risky option as you are not guaranteed a seat or a ticket.

Booking tips

Try booking the tickets as early as possible, especially if you’re travelling during the peak season of December to March

If seats are sold out online, check with your hotel or local tour agent if they can reserve tickets in advance from the station.

What to pack for your train journey

Ok, so you’re going to be spending between 6-10 hours on a train, especially one that can be a bit unpredictable.

Which makes packing the right things important and will make a huge difference to the comfort of your journey.

As there is no food cart on this train and limited creature comforts, you’ll want to come prepared.

We’d recommend packing these for any train journey in Sri Lanka:

Food and drink – with the limited food and drink available on the train, packing something to eat and drink is important. If local vendors don’t board the train, then we would recommend that you pack sandwiches and wraps, fruit, nuts and crisps, and plenty of bottled water.

Toilet roll, tissues and hand sanitiser – Ok so not every toilet in Sri Lanka has toilet paper. Pack a roll and tissues for any toilet trips and hand sanitiser for fighting off germs.

Layers – you might think that since Sri Lanka is a hot country, you may not need layers. But you’ll be surprised how cold the air conditioning can get, especially in the hill country, where temperatures drop.

Camera and power bank – A camera is a must if you want to get the best Instagram worthy shot of you standing in the open doorway of a moving train. (Just be careful when hanging out the open doors, as you don’t want to risk injury or worst).

Entertainment – The Ella to Kandy train might offer some of the most incredible views, but boredom can set in for some people. Download the latest TV series, movies, books or games to play, when boredom sets in.

Tips for making the most of your train journey

This is no ordinary train ride in Sri Lanka, it’s an experience in itself and why so many love this famous route.

But navigating how to purchase train tickets, the best seats on the train and when to arrive at the station are just some of the things to consider, when planning a trip to Sri Lanka.

Where to sit for best views

The views of the passing landscape on either side of the train are just incredible, but one side can offer more scenic views, tea plantations, valleys and dramatic drop offs.

While the left-hand side of the train is better if you are travelling from Kandy to Ella and the right-hand side is better if you’re travelling from Ella to Kandy.

However, the train weaves through the countryside, so the landscape constantly changes.

If possible, move around the train, but if you can’t because of overcrowding etc, then don’t worry, whichever side you’re on, you’ll still get the experience of travelling on one of Sri Lanka’s most scenic train rides, and you’ll still see beauty everywhere.

That epic train photo

Do you want that epic photo of you standing or hanging out of the open door, with the wind in your hair.

It’s an iconic photo for a reason.

BUT be safe when doing this, previous tourists have been looking for that iconic shot, and then an accident happens. Don’t be that person.

Safely stand in the doorway, whether that’s in first, second or third class.

If you do hang from the doorway, always check the surroundings, are there any lamp posts or tunnels coming up.

We personally wouldn’t recommend hanging from a moving train, but you should deem what is safe for you.

When to arrive at the station

We’ve seen many people offer advice on arriving at the train station around 1-2 hours before the scheduled departure. This is something we wouldn’t recommend.

Sri Lankan trains are renowned for their delays and never arriving when they are scheduled for.

If you arrive too early, you’ll be waiting at the station for longer than is necessary.

We’d recommend arriving around 30-45 minutes before the scheduled departure.

This still gives you time to locate the platform, grab a quick cuppa before the train is due to arrive.

Conclusion

So, is the Kandy to Ella train really worth all the hype?

Honestly, in our opinion 100% yes, we loved our experience and would love to do it again.

It’s not only one of the most iconic experiences in Sri Lanka, but you get to dial back a bit, with the slow pace of it all, while rolling past tea fields, and misty mountains.

It’s the kind of travel moment that will stay with you.

But of course, it’s not without its frustrations, delays, crowds and long hours, that can take a shine off the experience if you’re not prepared.

Things to look out for are the unbeatable scenery, consider your comfort, as this will hugely depend on which class you travel in. AND it’s worth the trip just for the photography.

If you’re still unsure, don’t worry you can hit us with any questions that we might have missed. Just drop a comment below.

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